Yogurt Spice Muffins

It’s amazing what’s happened to yogurt. At one time most Americans turned up their noses at it (especially when it was spelled yoghurt). But it has come into its own and now even the old naysayers have been converted.

Think about the almost countless varieties of yogurt available in supermarket refrigerator cases: cow’s milk, goat’s milk, sheep milk and even soy milk; Greek style, Australian style, Icelandic style and so on. Flavored, unflavored. Nonfat, lowfat, full fat.

Yogurt is the go-to food for the ages, for all ages from babies to senior citizens.

It’s the new best thing.

Actually, yogurt has been produced for thousands of years, an integral part of the culinary culture in India, Asia and the Middle East. It is spectacularly popular here now because it’s one of those rare foods that tastes good and is also good for you. Here’s what you’ll get from a portion of plain yogurt: lots of calcium (about 400 mg in each cup), 8-10 grams of protein and as much potassium as a banana, plus riboflavin and vitamins B-6 and B-12.

The “probiotics” in yogurt -- “good” bacteria -- are also thought to be beneficial to intestinal health, help boost immunity and fight certain cancers. And consider this: yogurt is easier to digest than milk; many people who can’t tolerate regular milk can eat it.

For home cooks yogurt has even more virtues to commend it. It is one of those incredibly versatile ingredients that you can use to create interesting and delicious dishes.

For starters, it’s a good substitute for certain higher-fat, higher-calorie ingredients. Next time, nix the dairy sour cream and spoon plain, Greek-style yogurt on top of a baked potato or bowl of chili. Substitute plain yogurt for half the mayonnaise you normally add to dressings for potato salad or crudites dip. Use it to cut down on butter in mashed potatoes and instead of ice cream atop warm fruit cobbler. Mix it with herbs and olive oil to create an energizing dressing for cucumbers.

Marinades for meat, poultry and fish benefit from yogurt because it partners so well with fragrant spices such as cumin, ginger, curry, coriander and also with aromatic herbs such as basil, dill, mint, oregano and rosemary. It keeps the meat moist and juicy too. Add citrus juice and olive oil and immerse boneless chicken breasts, a butterflied leg of lamb or a hunk of halibut. Those are the makings of a tasty entrée.

Yogurt is a boon to bakers because it gives a soft, tender quality to cakes, quick breads and muffins. Pancakes and waffles made with yogurt-based batter come out high and fluffy. (When replacing milk with yogurt, add 1/2-teaspoon baking soda for each cup of yogurt used.) You can even substitute yogurt for ice water when making pie dough; it gives the pastry the flakiness that most people like.

When the hot weather comes we’ll want to serve cold soups. Yogurt comes in handy here too, used in place of cream to enrich vegetable soups such as Vichyssoise. Or as a garnish on top of borscht or fruit soups.

It is also a terrific foundation for thirst quenching beverages. Lassi, a popular drink in India, is easy to make and is amazingly refreshing on even the hottest of summer days. Combine some yogurt with ice cubes and a bit of water and milk, add a flavorful ingredient, from a simple spoonful or sugar to slices of cucumber to almost any kind of chopped fruit you can think of and whirl the ingredients in the blender. You couldn’t ask for a quicker, custom-made, tastier beverage anywhere.

Sidebar: WHAT TO CONSIDER WHEN BUYING YOGURT

Not all yogurts are equal. If you’re just looking for a quick and tasty snack it doesn’t matter which kind or brand you buy. But to get the health and dietary benefits, be mindful of the following:

Yogurt is available full fat, low-fat and non-fat; the same quantities of butterfat as in whole milk, low-fat milk and skim milk.

FDA standards mandate that to be called "yogurt" it must be made by combining a dairy product with bacteria (usually Lactobacillus bulgaricus and Streptococcus thermophilus). Some yogurts are produced with as many as five different cultures (“probiotics”).

All yogurt is “made with active cultures”, but if those words appear on the label it means the yogurt was probably heat-treated to give the yogurt longer shelf life. The active cultures don’t survive the heat; all the health benefits from the active cultures have been eliminated. Look for words that indicate the yogurt contains “living” or “active” cultures.

Organic yogurt has been made from milk produced by animals raised under organic standards, fed an organic diet and given no regular treatments with antibiotics or growth hormones.

Some yogurts contain additives such as starch, pectin or gelatin to give the mixture more body, natural or artificial sweeteners, artificial color and other dairy products such as non-fat dry milk solids. “Lite” or "light" yogurt may be sweetened with aspartame.

Sidebar: TIPS ON COOKING WITH YOGURT

Yogurt comes in handy as an ingredient for all sorts of dishes, but it can be temperamental. Here are a few tips to think about when cooking with yogurt:

To avoid curdling or separating during cooking (and to preserve beneficial bacteria), try to have the yogurt at room temperature before you use it in recipes. Always use low heat and don’t let the mixture boil. In addition, whenever possible, add the yogurt at the end of the cooking process.

Curdling and separating may also be reduced if you add a stabilizer such as cornstarch or flour (2 tsp. cornstarch or 1 TBLSP. all-purpose flour for each cup of yogurt). Make it into a paste with some water before mixing it with the yogurt.

Don’t beat yogurt vigorously before adding it to other ingredients.

To substitute yogurt for buttermilk, thin the mixture with a small amount of water or milk.

Don’t use aluminum pans when cooking foods with yogurt; the acid in the yogurt will react with the metal and cause an off-taste.