Tomatoes Provencal

Creating a Menu

For December 16, 2010

Few foods measure up to the grandeur of a standing rib roast. A hefty hunk of beef, golden brown and crusty-edged, is a symbol of plenty, a celebratory choice for Christmas, New Year’s or any other joyful dinner at home. It’s an enduring star, its status secured long before anyone ever heard of caramelized Foie Gras with Yuzu Foam or Sunchokes with Meyer Lemon and Crème Fraiche, which may be appealing to more sophisticated tastes but which few can actually make in a typical kitchen.

Rib roast also has other outstanding qualities that make it a fitting entree during the holiday season. It’s high on flavor and it is easier to prepare than you might think. You can get it set up for the oven in advance, so there’s no last minute fussing, and it goes with practically any side dish you can think of, so there’s versatility to commend it.

Expense may be a problem -- the price per pound can be upwards of $8, more for prime. On the other hand, we eat less red meat than we used to. At one time one rib per person was the standard serving – a thick slab of beef on the plate. Today though, when many other foods have been super-sized, rib roast has been down-sized. Figure one rib for two people.

Carving can be problematic too because it can be difficult to get a clean cut around the bone. But don’t switch to boneless. The meat is more flavorful with the bone attached and besides, someone will invariably want to gnaw on one.

Here’s a way around the problem: when you bring the meat home, use a sharp slicing knife to cut as near to the bone as possible, completely carving out the round of meat. It will look like a boneless roast. Then tie it back onto the bone with kitchen string. When the meat is roasted and ready for carving, cut the strings away and carve slices from the now-boneless roast. Better yet, when you buy the meat, ask the butcher to do this for you.

Simple seasonings are best for rib roast. You may be tempted to try a spicy rub or a marinade for basting, all fine but unnecessary. Good beef doesn’t need much flavor boosting. So, while mustard-chili powder pastes or coatings of fresh herbs are okay, all you really need are salt, freshly ground black pepper, some garlic and perhaps some paprika for color. Spoon the spices into a small bowl and make a paste using water (or red wine, stock or vegetable oil). Brush the paste all over the meat and bones. You’re done, except for the actual cooking.

Before you cook the meat, preheat the oven to 450 degrees; the oven should be hot, to sear the meat effectively as soon as you put it in to roast. After 20 minutes turn the oven down to 350 degrees and continue to cook the roast. About 15 minutes per pound is right for rare, more for medium. Rib roast doesn’t require basting and you don’t need to include wine, stock or water in the pan. It’s all about the meat.

But you would be smart to get a good meat thermometer, unless you’re a pro and can tell if a roast is done by pressing it with your finger. Place the probe into the middle of the meat and remove the roast when it reads 115 degrees (for rare), 125 degrees for medium (the temperature will rise even after you take the meat from the oven). Let the roast stand for 15 minutes before carving.

In the meantime you can put the finishing touches on the side dishes. Mashed potatoes, plain, or with roasted garlic, chopped cooked cabbage or kale or enriched with cream cheese, is the ideal side dish for rib roast and it, too, can be readied in advance. Add a colorful vegetable or two and you’re done. Roasted tomatoes give a blast of rich red to the plate (and can be done ahead too); a green vegetable such as spinach, string beans, Brussels sprouts, chard or sugar snap peas would round out the plate with color, flavor and texture. A festive, delicious and easy-to-cook dinner.