Sweet Potato Casserole with Dates. Figs, Raisins and Marshmallows

September 2011

Homemade Marshmallows

Why would anyone make homemade marshmallows? You can buy them everywhere, the inexpensive commercially produced familiar kind from the supermarket or the way-over-the-top-expensive ones in little beribboned bags sold in upscale food shops.

The reason is this: like the ripe, end-of-summer tomato you pluck from your garden or a crisp new-crop autumn apple, fresh, homemade marshmallows surpass any packaged product intended for shelf life. They are uniquely delicate and ethereal, melting quickly on your tongue and not at all chewy. At home you can flavor them as you wish too, by using juice (cranberry, mango or blood orange, for example) or cool strong espresso coffee or tea (such as Earl Grey) in place of water or by mixing in a few drops of extract (peppermint, orange, almond) or by adding cocoa or fruit puree to the basic ingredients.

While it is also true that marshmallows offer no health benefits – no fiber, no vitamins, no cholesterol-lowering capabilities – and in fact are bad for your teeth and not so terrific for your waistline either, there are still more reasons to commend them. Besides satisfying a longing for something distinctive and sweet, marshmallows conjure up happy and comforting childhood memories. Memories of devouring S’mores at a late-summer bonfire. Memories of coming home to marshmallow-topped hot chocolate on a chilly Hallowe’en night. Memories of roasting marshmallows on a stick and arguing about whether they are better lightly browned and crispy, but firm, or charcoal-colored and oozing inside.

Even as adults we hold a special place for such simple sweets of our youth, which may be why marshmallow-topped sweet potato casserole continues to be a Thanksgiving favorite despite that food writers, chefs and restaurant critics poke fun at the dish.

Marshmallows are fun to cook too, and can make quite a mess, which may or may not add to the festivities, depending on who will be cleaning up the kitchen. You’ll need a good mixer, hand-held or standing type, and a candy thermometer. Marshmallow is basically gelatin, sugar, corn syrup and flavoring whipped to a frenzy. Adding egg whites makes marshmallows fluffier.

Once you’ve beaten the ingredients voluminously and spooned the mixture into the prepared pan, the fluff firms somewhat. At that point cut it into squares or any shapes you wish. You can eat marshmallows fresh from the pan, as is, dusted with some sifted confectioner’s sugar. Or dip them in melted chocolate (and after that, into crushed toasted almonds or toasted coconut if you wish).

Be aware that homemade marshmallows are fabulously soft. Don’t expect them to spring back like the packaged kind. Close your eyes, take a bite and let it all dissolve on your tongue.

Homemade marshmallows make wonderful holiday gifts. You can place them in small bags, tie them with a gorgeous ribbon and it will look like the costly kind you could have bought. But for much less money.