Potato Strudel

October 2011

Savory Pastries

Say the word “pastry” and what usually comes to mind are things like apple pie and éclairs or those tiny fruit-topped tarts filled with pudding. But the culinary world is blessed with foods such as meat-stuffed empanadas, strudel leaves filled with oniony mashed-potatoes and other savory, dough-covered foods. Come the cold weather, these savory pastries are hearty, filling and made to nourish. They are also handy and convenient because you make them in advance and either bake, fry or reheat them at mealtime.

Empanadas, the ubiquitous, moon-shaped mini-pies of Spanish and Latin American cultures, are actually familiar throughout the world by other names, from the Pierogies of Poland to the Samosas of India, from Italian Calzone to Turkish Borek. The fillings reflect the region they’re from, so that in Israel you might find Sambusak filled with ground beef, pine nuts and cinnamon and in Russian kitchens cooks might make pork and mushroom Chebureki, but in England, a classic Pasty would likely be filled with chopped beef, potato and peas.

You can make these mini-pies at home. It’s easy too, because no fancy or intricate doughs are required, just rich pie (shortcrust) dough, cut smaller, then filled and folded. The fillings will capture your mood and culinary whim: shrimp with potatoes and curry; pork, apple and blue cheese; spinach, mushroom and feta cheese. They also depend on what’s in your refrigerator – chop last night’s leftover chicken, mix in some vegetables, onions and/or potatoes and you’re done. Blend in a small amount of white sauce or grated cheese for enrichment if you wish. There’s almost no limit to what goes inside.

While Strudel isn’t as universal as Empanadas are, Americans are familiar enough with it, especially Apple Strudel. Like Empanadas, this pastry translates easily from dessert into a savory to make filling dinner entrees or side dishes when stuffed with seafood, meat or chicken or with vegetables mixed in a cream sauce, or with thick vegetable purees such as mashed potatoes, winter squash, carrots, rutabagas and so on.

Making your own strudel dough can be a frustrating and time-consuming task and European style strudel dough, once sold in specialty food stores, is difficult to come by these days. But packaged frozen phyllo dough is a good substitute and is available in most supermarkets. Strudel dough is somewhat thicker and less papery, so extra layers of phyllo leaves are needed if you are using an old family recipe or one from a cookbook that calls for classic strudel dough.

Puff Pastry is also familiar when made into sweet treats such as apple turnovers. It too can easily be used to create substantial dinner items. Wrap a tenderloin of beef, for example and you’ve got Beef Wellington, a luxurious company dish. Or use the pastry to enclose a hunk of salmon or top a pot pie.

Here too, you might begin by making your own puff pastry, but that can be a lot of work. There are several excellent frozen dough brands to pick from at most supermarkets, so why not take the easy way out?

Savory mini-pies, strudel and puff pastry entrees and side dishes are all freezable. Cover them in plastic wrap and tuck them in for storage for up to 3 months. Take advantage of a freezer full of these dinner gems when you’ve had a busy day and had no time to cook.