Ronnie's Notes
Osso Buco
For March 3, 2011
It is almost magical the way a chewy, tough hunk of meat becomes velvet-on-your-tongue tender when you cook it right. But that’s the way it is with Osso Buco, a northern Italian specialty made with veal shanks. The muscle-bound pieces taken from a calf’s shin cook sloooooww-ly in savory fluids over a low, low flame and all the while the gristle and sinew melt into lush, glossy gravy, while perfuming your kitchen with aromas of expectation. It’s a dish worth waiting for, anytime, but especially during the chill and iffy weeks of winter and even now as we see the light of day to early spring.
Unlike lamb shanks, which are cut lengthwise, veal shanks for Osso Buco are cut crosswise, with shin meat clinging to a marrow bone at the center (in fact the name of the dish means “bone with a hole”). But like any kind of meat shank, Osso Buco does best when braised. When the dish is done, the meat comes away from the bone in fall-apart softness, its sweet, meaty flavor a perfect match for its complex sauce redolent of tomato and lemon, herbs and wine. The big bonus is the silky, almost-melted marrow, ready to savor alone, scooped with a tiny spoon and swooped onto your tongue, or spread on toasted, crusty bread.
Surprisingly, though most tough meat cuts cost less than the tender ones, Osso Buco can be expensive, with shanks anywhere from $7.99/pound to more than $15/pound. It’s a dish for a special night, or for company, and one you want to get right, with nothing wasted. You can make the dish ahead, up to 3 days, because the flavor improves as the ingredients mellow together quietly. You can also freeze Osso Buco, which is good to know if you happen to see veal shanks on sale at your butcher shop or local supermarket.
Begin with shanks about 1-1/2 to 2-inches thick. Thicker ones are fine, but unnecessary; if they’re too much thinner they may over cook and become rubbery. Brown them first, to give them color and to add a sweet hint of caramelization. Remove the meat from the pan and add the sauce ingredients to deglaze the bottom. After that, put the meat back in, sprinkle the ingredients with flavorful herbs and let the dish cook for several hours until the meat is tender. The lower the heat and the more time you give this dish the better it will be. Never let the liquid boil; keep it below a simmer, cover the pan and leave it alone.
Almost any liquid works for braising and there are regional differences among recipes for Osso Buco. The one we’re most familiar with in this country is Osso Buco Milanese, which calls for dry white wine and meat stock (beef or veal) plus water-laden vegetables: tomatoes, onions and celery.
In Milan, a city esteemed for its Osso Buco, the dish is usually served topped with Gremolata, a kind of dry condiment made by mixing chopped fresh parsley, garlic and lemon peel, and accompanied by saffron-scented, Parmesan-enriched Risotto. But the Gremolata isn’t essential; the bountifully flavored meat and sauce do fine on their own. And for those who feel intimidated by the prospect of making risotto, polenta is fine too, as is pasta.
Instructions
Dredge the veal shanks in the flour.
Shake off excess flour.
Heat the butter and olive oil in a deep sauté pan over medium heat.
When the butter has melted and looks foamy, add the meat and cook for , turning the shanks occasionally or until lightly browned.
Remove the meat from the pan.
Add the onion, carrot, celery and garlic and cook the vegetables for , stirring them occasionally.
Add the lemon peel, wine, stock, tomatoes and tomato paste to the pan.
Bring the ingredients to a simmer.
Return the meat to the pan.
Sprinkle the ingredients with the salt, pepper and marjoram or oregano.
Cover the pan and cook the osso buco gently over low heat for about 2 to 2-1/ or until the meat is very tender.
Served topped with Gremolata, if desired.
Makes 4 servings