Kale and Potato Gratin

October 2012

Kale

Kale is king these days. It’s everywhere, in farmer’s markets and supermarkets and on menus in some of the most upscale restaurants. There’s an abundance of kale recipes in newspapers, magazines and on the internet.

They told us so! At the beginning of the year food experts said that this vegetable would be au courant in 2012. Of course some writers also predicted the popularity of Caneles (a molded cake made with crepe batter) and hailed the coming of Alfajores (a sandwich cookie filled with mousse or jam).

No matter. They were right about kale.

You know a food is the rage when older people who have spent a lifetime not even knowing what it is are suddenly eating kale as a side dish with dinner and kids are taking kale chips instead of Cheerios to school in little plastic bags. Check out the words “kale chips” on Google and you’ll see for yourself that this is among the hottest new snacks since hummus.

But kale is beyond trendy. There are plenty of good reasons why it has caught on and will endure as a culinary mainstay.

Like other leafy green vegetables (such as collards and chard) that we’ve turned to in recent years, kale suits the modern American palate, which seems to prefer robust foods that have character and a spicy edge. This cabbage cousin fits right in. Kale is sharp, pungent and sometimes bitter.

We have also learned how to prepare kale to bring out its best qualities while also minimizing the harsh ones. Our grandmas cooked leafy greens to death. The entire house reeked of sulphur, the vegetable turned a nasty color and it fell apart like so much mush. But we know better now. Although it needs more time than spinach, you can stirfry cut up kale in as little as 5 minutes, braise it in under 10.

Either way, kale is so versatile that you can heighten flavor in several ways: add garlic, ginger, soy sauce and sesame oil for an Asian flair. Or golden raisins and pignoli nuts to make it Sicilian style. Perhaps a bid to the Old South? Add some smoked ham, red pepper flakes and garlic. Stirfried and braised kale make good side dishes but are also fine as a bed for grilled fish or chicken. And you can bulk up dinner by adding either to pasta or a frittata.

Kale is casserole friendly too, a flavorful partner for cooked beans, whole grains or creamy gratins. And it is fine for soups, providing a heartiness that is sure to be welcome when days get shorter and colder. Add some to Minestrone or any other vegetable soup. Pair it with cannelinis and broth to make classic Tuscan White Bean Soup; add eggs and cheese and it’s enough as a main course for dinner.

There are two popular varieties of kale, curly leaf and Lacinato (sometimes called black, Tuscan or Dinosaur kale, with darker, flat leaves and thinner stems). A few stores might carry Russian kale, which has oaklike leaves and reddish stems. Curly kale is somewhat stronger tasting than the other two and may take a minute or so longer to cook.

Whichever you choose, look for firm, crispy, non-wilted leaves without yellow spots. Wash each leaf carefully to get rid of sand and dirt that might cling to the veins. Remove and discard the thick stems, they’re too fibrous to eat. Cut the large leaves with a chef’s knife into strips before using the vegetable for cooking.

Kale used to be considered a poor man’s dish. But, like so many other so-called lowly ingredients, it has come into its own for people at all income levels. That may be because it adds so much variety to a tired diet. Americans are always eager to try some new food or cuisine. But more likely it’s because kale is also so healthy. It is one of those nutrient-dense “superfoods” that appeals to smart folks who pay attention to their diet. Kale is rich in fiber and loaded with omega-3 fatty acids, antioxidant flavonoids, Calcium, Vitamins A, C and K. It has both anti-cancer and cholesterol lowering properties.

Prediction: kale will still be king in 2013.