Ice Cream, Meringue and Final Assembly:

Meringues

In the movie Million Dollar Baby, hard-edged Frankie Dunn (Clint Eastwood) trains would-be boxer Maggie Fitzgerald (Hillary Swank) and her career takes off. But then things go badly, horribly, for the woman and Frankie searches for something authentic and unfailing in his gloomy, miserable world.

He settles on Lemon Meringue Pie.

The choice of Lemon Meringue Pie as a metaphor for goodness is understandable. Considering only its virtues as a dessert, this dish is a wonder of contrasting tastes -- tangy custard topped with a sugar-load -- and textures -- crumbly crust, creamy center and soft, billowy pillow to cover. 

The pie’s emotional strengths marvel as well. It is among those simple, reassuring comforts that bring us back to a not-so-distant past when everything seemed fine, whether it actually was or not.

So why isn’t Lemon Meringue Pie the popular dessert it once was, back in the 1940s and 1950s? Why has it become the stuff of diners and not dining room tables?

One reason could be that making meringue can be intimidating to even the most experienced home cook. It’s one of those recipes that stymie, despite the fact that there are only two basic ingredients: egg whites and sugar. Meringues sometimes droop. Or weep. Or feel chewy. No one wants to work hard and have a good dessert come to the table looking forlorn and tasting like leather.

But once you know the secrets of making meringue it will open up all sorts of culinary possibilities for you. Not merely Lemon Meringue Pie, but Baked Alaska, the fabulous ice cream-and-cake combo, glistening in its quickly toasted meringue coat. Or Pavlovas, those crispy meringue shells filled with fresh fruit and whipped cream and drizzled with raspberry coulis. And so on.

Meringue is actually just sweetened foam, created by whipping egg whites with a whisk. Success depends on two factors: maximizing the volume of the whites without overbeating them and adding the proper amount of sugar per egg whites at the right time. Here are some pointers that will help you do both:

Use the freshest eggs possible; their thicker whites whip to greater volume and with more stability than thinner, older egg whites.

Divide the yolks and whites when the eggs are cold and separate more effectively. This helps keep even the tiniest particle of yolk fat from getting into the whites. Egg yolk fat inhibits volume. If a piece of egg shell or speck of yolk falls into the whites, use a spoon to get it out rather than your fingers, which contain skin oils.

For maximum volume (at least 6 times the original volume), let the egg whites come to room temperature (usually about 30 minutes) before you beat them.

Be sure the bowl and whisk or other beater are immaculately clean and free of any residual fat, and are completely dry. Copper bowls are best because the acid in the metal helps stabilize the foam. However, you can beat whites very effectively in a stainless steel, ceramic or glass bowl. Never use aluminum (it discolors the foam) or plastic bowls (because no matter how much you wash them the surface of plastic bowls will still retain some fat particles).

Use a balloon whisk or the whisk attachment of an electric mixer or hand mixer; standard cake batter beaters won’t get you the same volume; neither will a food processor.

Always start beating the whites on slow and gradually increase the speed as volume increases.

Beat the whites to the foamy stage before you add ingredients such as cream of tartar, salt, lemon juice or vinegar to stabilize the foam.

Add the sugar gradually (about 2 tablespoonsful at a time), and only after the whites have been beaten to the “soft peak” stage – that’s when the tips fall over when you lift the beater. “Stiff but not dry” means egg whites that are beaten until the foam is thick but still glossy looking and the meringue swirls stand up firmly with only a tiny bit at the top lopping over (to judge, spoon a small amount out of the bowl, turn the spoon over – it should cling, not fall out).

While there is no magic formula for the amount of sugar to include, a general rule of thumb is 1/4-cup sugar per large or extra-large egg white for firm meringues used to make Pavlovas; less for softer meringues to top pies and cakes.

Try not to make meringues on a rainy or humid day. The water in the air may seep into the bubble foam and could make the meringue weep.

Meringue desserts can last, but if they need refrigeration, the meringue will eventually weep. For Baked Alaska, Lemon Meringue Pie and other desserts that need cold storage – make the desserts and cloak them with the meringue at the last minute, before serving.