Grilled Yogurt Chicken and Shrimp Kebabs

May 2009

Kebabs

Grilled kebabs are the opposite of trendy. They’re not new, not the next hot culinary rage. In fact, the technique of cooking small chunks of food on an open fire is centuries – no, millennia – old. It has endured all this time, almost everywhere. Travel from Southeast Asia to the Middle East to South America and you’ll encounter some form of meat on a stick on restaurant menus or as street fare.

Why? Because this dish, which was most likely invented in ancient Persia by nomadic tribesmen is quick, convenient and delicious. Those clever wanderers discovered how easy it was to spear some meat on their swords and grill it quickly for dinner before moving on to the next campsite. They also found that the food, fresh from the fire, scented with smoke and sizzling on the surface tastes really good.

It’s all still true. These days, kebab cooking still works for folks who are busy but want to make tasty, easy meals for their families.

Now that barbecue season has arrived, there’s a bonus for those who have an outdoor grill. Kebabs are certainly fine if you cook them in an oven broiler, but there’s no denying the extra flavor the grill gives them. Besides, outdoor grilling keeps the heat out of the kitchen, a big plus now that hot weather is coming.

Because kebabs cook quickly, any meat you use for the dish should be cut from the more tender portions: beef filet, sirloin or rib rather than chuck or round; pork loin or rib; lamb loin or leg. Shellfish such as shrimp or scallops, and firm fin fish (swordfish, tuna or monkfish, for example) are also good options, as are boneless chicken breast or thigh. You can use tougher beef, pork and lamb cuts if you use a yogurt or buttermilk marinade, which helps to tenderize fibrous portions. In any case, to prevent fire flare-ups, always remove any extra surface fat.

Be sure to cut the chunks of meat into more or less the same size, to ensure even cooking. Skewer and season the kebabs and brush them with some olive oil before placing them over the hot grids, except if they have been marinated. That’s all there is to it.

While most marinades (other than those made with milk products) do not tenderize meat, they are remarkably good at boosting flavor, so it’s a good idea to consider using one instead of just sprinkling the ingredients with salt and pepper. A simple vinaigrette dressing will do, but for an even more bountiful taste, add ingredients such as chopped fresh herbs, Dijon mustard, pomegranate paste, grated ginger, red wine and Worcestershire sauce. Or switch from the classic olive oil and red wine vinegar to a different vegetable oil and acid, say, canola oil and lime juice, for example. You can create an Asian style marinade by mixing soy sauce, sherry, ginger and sesame oil. Or a Middle Eastern style marinade using olive oil, garlic, harissa and orange juice. For a Southwest flavor, mix olive oil with cumin, oregano and chopped fresh chili peppers and for a marinade that has a Southeast Asian taste, combine soy sauce, fish sauce, coconut milk and curry.

There is some benefit to cooking kebab ingredients separately. It makes timing the meal easier; put the meat skewers on the fire first, the quicker cooking fruits and vegetables later. But the visual appeal of mixed ingredients – beef, green pepper and tomato or pork, pineapple and zucchini, for example – plus the melding of flavors that occurs, probably gives this kind of presentation an overall edge. To assure that the meat cooks through without overcooking the other ingredients, cut the meat into smaller pieces, especially it you’re using pork and poultry. If you like beef and lamb rare, place the chunks in the freezer for 10-15 minutes before placing them on the skewer.

Keep size and firmness in mind when choosing kebab vegetables and fruits. Onions, mushrooms, bell peppers, zucchini, eggplant, tomatoes, artichoke bottoms and asparagus hold up fairly well, as do fruits such as peach, pineapple, mango, apple and kiwi. Harder vegetables such as carrots, sweet potatoes, white baby onions, potatoes and the like need partial cooking first. In addition to the typical fruits and vegetables, think about including more unusual ingredients on the skewer -- chunks of firm bread, kumquats, pickles and halloumi cheese, for example.

To cook the kebabs, place them on the grids about 4-6 inches from the heat source. Turn the skewers occasionally to brown all sides evenly. You can serve the kebabs, skewers and all, or remove the separate ingredients onto each person’s plate. Add a starch such as cooked couscous, polenta, orzo or rice and dinner in complete.