Cranberry Gravy

November 2012

The Other Turkey

Turkey used to be a November thing, the prized centerpiece on the Thanksgiving table and basically once-a-year food, although some folks repeated for Christmas dinner.

That’s all changed now. People who love turkey think nothing of cooking it any old time, especially because ever since the 1970s cut up parts have been available in every supermarket, throughout the year.

The change came about then as a result of the country’s growing diversity. Manufacturers were quick to meet the demands of ethnic groups that do not eat beef or pork. Ground turkey replaced beef for burgers, and turkey meat, including deli items (such as bacon, sausage, hot dogs and such), replaced the forbidden proteins in schools, universities and corporate cafeterias.

Then too, during the 1980s, as people began to learn more about fats and cholesterol, folks who wished to eat leaner meat began to substitute turkey too. And they also realized they could get that tasty turkey flavor and not have to wait for November. It helped that turkey parts are easier to cook and take less time.

And so, the huge shift to turkey consumption. Turkey has become an everyday item, a popular alternative to chicken and beef.

That doesn’t mean turkey is ordinary. And certainly a large, golden brown, roasted turkey is still impressive, and what most of us will choose for our Thanksgiving feast. There’s drama and festivity to that. We like to picture our families in a comforting Norman Rockwell image of Mom, bedecked with apron, bringing the platter into the dining room, Dad standing at the head of the table, sharpening the carving knife on the hone. Jenny wants a wing, Jimmy a drumstick. Grandpa prefers some white meat with gravy. We all have our favorite parts and wait patiently for the meat to come our way.

But if you are a small family or group you might not want to cook a whole bird, especially if everyone at your table only likes white meat, or dark. Or only the bones. Or only particular bones, say, the wings or thighs.

It’s all right there for you in the store. You can have it your way. Anytime you want it, not just on Thanksgiving.

Sliced turkey, carved into cutlets, is quick and easy to cook and extremely versatile. Although turkey has its own distinctive flavor, the meat is mild, like chicken, and lends itself to a variety of seasonings and embellishments. You can substitute turkey cutlets in any recipe for boneless, skinless chicken: breaded and fried, marinated and grilled, baked with sauce. Use them for Turkey Parmesan, Turkey Marsala or Piccata. Or cooked and tucked into a sandwich or sliced over a Caesar Salad.

It’s similar for ground turkey. Use it instead of ground beef to make red sauce for pasta, or for chili con carne. Make it into meatloaf or put it on top of burritos to make a Southwest style pizza. Hamburgers? Sure, but the meat is milder than beef, so feel free to add some extra spices (cumin, curry, and such) or fresh herbs to perk it up. And it’s also drier and has less fat than most ground beef, so you’ll need to mix in ingredients (like chopped spinach, ricotta cheese or eggs and soaked breadcrumbs) to keep them from crumbling or becoming too chewy. For some folks, a burger is all about the bread and trimmings, so even a plain, lightly seasoned turkey burger will be terrific placed inside a bun, roll or pita pocket and slathered with condiments as diverse as hoisin sauce, chili salsa, cranberry gravy and mango chutney. One note of caution about turkey burgers: you can’t eat them rare. Be sure to cook them through completely.

Turkey breasts come several ways: a whole breast with wings attached (or not), boneless breasts and even half breasts. Roast these as you would a whole turkey – seasoned and basted – but for less time. The same applies to thighs, wings and drumsticks.

Some stores sell separately packaged turkey necks. Many people use the necks to make stock for gravy, but turkey bone aficionados know the necks have some of the softest, best-tasting meat of the entire bird. Season and roast the neck alongside the turkey (add extra necks or neck parts to the pan). To cook as a separate meal, braise the necks and serve them with the natural pan juices, accompanied by cooked egg noodles or polenta and a green vegetable.