Biscuits

Baking with Buttermilk

For May 12, 2011

Shakespeare never said this in his play, but some say Cleopatra stole the heart of Mark Antony because she had silky, radiant skin -- thanks to baths in buttermilk. Margaret Mitchell did mention buttermilk’s beautifying virtues in her epic novel, “Gone With the Wind.” Mammy used it to lighten Scarlett O’Hara’s freckles.

Today, all the literature about buttermilk’s role for skin loveliness comes from cosmetics industry p.r., though scientists do agree that lactic acid, an alpha hydroxy present in buttermilk, exfoliates the skin and can remove or at least lighten, dark spots.

But whether or not it can get rid of wrinkles and age blemishes, this we do know for sure: buttermilk is invaluable to cooks. There are dozens of useful ways to use it for recipes. Like soaking chicken parts before roasting or frying, to tenderize the meat and give it a vague, compelling acidity. Or using it as a base for creamy, low-fat, low-calorie summer soups made with fresh vegetables. Or adding it to ordinary vinaigrette dressings for its stimulating contribution to fresh salads. Or blending it with fresh fruit and ice to make a thick, sweet-and-tangy, thirst quenching drink for summer.

Bakers are especially thankful for buttermilk. Not only does it add an almost imperceptible, but pleasantly piquant flavor, the acid (like that in dairy sour cream and yogurt) works with baking soda to make foods such as pancakes, waffles, biscuits, scones and tea breads rise high. It also inhibits flour gluten, so that these baked goods come out soft, tender and fluffy.

Want flakier pie dough? Next time try substituting buttermilk for the water. Wonder why Irish Soda Bread is so soft and moist? It’s the buttermilk. Love blueberry muffins? The tender, crumbly ones include buttermilk in the batter.

There’s been a sharp decline in buttermilk sales in U.S. over the last decade or so. This may have to do with the mistaken notion that buttermilk is a high-fat, high-calorie, sour-tasting drink.

It isn’t.

Natural buttermilk is the liquid left over when milk and cream are churned to become butter. But most of us don’t live on farms and don’t do our own churning. We buy commercial buttermilk, which is manufactured by mixing milk (either skim or low-fat) with cultures similar to those used for yogurt. The result is a rich, thick, creamy liquid that feels velvety on the tongue but is actually low in fat and calories. It is not loaded with butter. It is loaded with calcium. An all-around winner then for nutrition too.

Some people say they don’t buy buttermilk because they think they won’t be using enough of it to justify the cost (about $1.79-$2.00/quart). And yet – it is a fine thirst-quenching beverage all by itself as well as for smoothies, and there are so many ways to cook with it and so many baked goodies to make with it, it seems unlikely that any will be leftover. But it’s good to know that you can keep buttermilk for at least a week after its sell-by date and even freeze leftovers for 6-8 weeks (use frozen buttermilk for baking).