Bell Pepper and Chili Roast

Passover 2009

What to Serve Before the Seder

March 23, 2009

On Passover, which begins this year at sundown on April 8th, observant Jews throughout the world will gather around the dinner table with family and friends, and read from a book called a Haggadah, which recounts the tale of the ancient Hebrews’ miraculous escape from slavery in Egypt to freedom in the Holy Land. Candles are lit, prayers are read and then, with the same words that have been recited year after year for centuries, a plate of matzo is uncovered and everyone says: “This is the bread of affliction which our ancestors ate in the land of Egypt. Let all who are hungry come and eat.”

Hunger, of course, can have both physical and spiritual meanings and for thousands of years, scholars, sages and ordinary folk have debated what this call to Passover means. But in purely gastronomic terms it has usually meant that the dinner that follows the reading will be a large, multi-course meal and that there is always room for yet another person to join in.

At a typical Passover meal, many of the family’s treasured once-a-year recipes will be served, such favorites as matzo ball soup and gefilte fish, braised brisket or roasted turkey or lamb and dozens of side dishes. Lots of matzo. Several desserts. Candies. Macaroons. No one is hungry for food after this kind of meal.

Knowing that so much food will come, there’s one problem that always seems to baffle those who are having the Seder: “what do I serve before, when everyone comes to the house?”

There are several considerations to keep in mind. On the one hand there will be plenty to eat at dinner, so the nibbles can’t be too filling. On the other hand, because the Haggadah is read before dinner is served, there’s a long wait before the food comes.

There are all the Passover restrictions to think about too: nothing made with bread or leavening (or, for Jews of Eastern European descent, kitniyot, which are other grains, including rice and corn). That means some well-liked staple hors d’oeuvre are out of the question. No hummus (made from chick peas, which are kitniyot), no franks-in-blankets, no corn chips-and-salsa. And, because of the complexity of restrictions about mixing meat and dairy, it’s probably not the best idea to serve anything with cheese, given that a meat meal will almost surely follow.

What’s left? Foods that fill without sating, that are designed to quell hunger long enough for everyone to pay attention to the reading without thinking about being hungry. Eggs, fruits, nuts, olives, smoked fish, vegetables are perfect.

Eggs are an integral part of Passover. There will be a roasted egg on the Seder plate, which decorates the dinner table and holds symbolic foods that remind everyone of the struggle for freedom. Many Jewish families also follow the custom of eating hard cooked eggs dipped in salt water during the reading. Still, serving stuffed eggs before the holiday begins is another way to bring in this ingredient, always a symbol of eternal life. They are also easy to make and can be prepared a day or so ahead of the Seder.

Smoked salmon isn’t filling and small pieces are fine draped over sliced zucchini or cucumber rounds. Chop the salmon with a bit of red onion and some fresh dill and you’ve created smoked salmon tartar, which is a more festive presentation for the holiday, especially when served with lemon-flavored mayonnaise, which takes about a minute to make.

Roasted red peppers are a classic pre-Seder pick-me-up. They’re available store-bought and kosher for Passover, but they are also easy to cook at home. Adding a jalapeno pepper to the mix gives the dish a jolt of fresh energy. Cook the peppers up to two days ahead; about 15 minutes before serving sprinkle them with a few drops of lemon juice and chopped fresh basil and the hors d’oeuvre is done.

Guacamole is also a treat, even without the corn chips. This dish is delightfully variable depending on personal tastes, but basically it’s made with mashed avocado and any of several other additions such as lime juice, chopped garlic or onion, hot chili peppers, fresh coriander, tomatoes and so on. Serve it on slices of Roma tomatoes or as a dip with crudités or matzo crackers.