Apple Brown Betty

Foods Named After Women

Why are so many desserts named after women? Were they created in that bygone era when working as a chef was a males-only career and women were considered the “sweet” fair sex? Or did some female home cook just apply her own name to some fabulous confection she had created for her family?

Food historians haven’t unearthed the origins of some of these recipes, but we do know that each is an enduring favorite, distinctive and charming in its unique way.

Madeleine, one of the most famous of les girls, is the elegant lady of tea cakes. Marcel Proust’s fortuitous nibble of this soft, delicate sweet called forth a flood of childhood memories that he used as a starting point for his renowned autobiographical novel “Remembrance of Things Past.” Today you might think that Madeleines are not at all special because they’ve become more or less ubiquitous, packaged in plastic, at delis and coffee shops.

Forget those. Madeleines are tastiest when eaten within a few hours of baking. Like fresh-cut flowers, they have a brief moment of glory, but it’s fleeting and then it’s gone.

Madeleines are actually tiny genoise –butter-rich sponge cakes – and can be a bit tricky to make. The ingredients must be folded in gently so as to keep the batter light as air. A special pan is required too; it contains indented, scallop-shaped molds. But fresh Madeleines are worth the trouble, and eating one straight out of your oven may call forth some of your own delicious or poignant memories. Or create them.

Betty is more down to earth. This dessert, which is basically baked, cut-up fruit topped with a crumb crust or buttered bread, has been a favorite in America since the earliest settlements. You can make one with any fruit, though apple seems to be the most popular. Now that apple season is here, Betty seems a good candidate for family meals or even informal company desserts.

Unlike Madeleines, Betty couldn’t be easier to prepare. You need only peel, core and cut up apples that bake well: Golden Delicious, Rhode Island Greening, Granny Smiths, Winesap, Jonagold, Gala or Braeburn are all fine. Mix diced bread with sugar and butter (plus seasonings if you wish) and arrange this mixture on top of the fruit. Bake the casserole, let it cool slightly and serve. Betty, so homey and comforting, is perfect for fall dinners as the weather starts to turn. It’s a blessed treat whether served as is or with a blob of vanilla ice cream.

Charlotte is the femme fatale of desserts. This dish was invented in England in the 18th century and may have been named for Queen Charlotte, wife of King George III (of American Revolution notoriety).

There are two kinds, both molded desserts. The first, a warm, baked version is more or less baked fruit enclosed within a thin wrapping of buttered bread (akin to Betty, but somewhat fancier because the bread is molded on the outside rather than cut up and scattered casually on top). Cold Charlotte is basically a shell of ladyfingers or strips of cake filled in the center with pudding, custard, Bavarian cream, chestnut puree or even ice cream. The most well-known version is Charlotte Russe, probably created by the great chef Crème in the mid-19th century. It was first known as Charlotte Parisienne but for political reasons having to do with Russian Czar Alexander I it was renamed.

A warm Charlotte is good, family fare. A cold Charlotte is definitely for special dinner guests because the creamy center takes some time and patience to make and after it is unmolded is usually decorated on top with glaceed fruit or jam.

Victoria is the regal dame of cakes. It’s a simple confection, made of two light, delicate sponge cake layers sandwiched with jam or lemon curd. There’s no frosting or icing, no spectacular decorations fashioned with displays of spun sugar, chocolate swirls or boysenberry foam. But don’t let its low-key nature fool you. Victoria, aptly named for one of England’s long-reigning queens (1837-1901), is not about trendy showmanship. It’s about flavor, a cake that’s compelling because the buttery crumb, gentle hint of citrus and raspberry jam work miracles in your mouth.

We can’t neglect Pavlova, comprised of a meringue shell filled with fresh fruit and named for a famed Russian ballerina (Anna Pavlova), Martha Washington Cake (served during the Christmas holiday season by our first President and wife), Sarah Bernhardt cookies (marzipan and chocolate mousse enrobed with a chocolate shell), Peach Melba (with raspberry sauce, after Nellie Melba), Crepes Suzette (with orange brandy sauce) and MaryAnns (small, indented cakes to be filled with fruit and topped with whipped cream). We could go on and on. These desserts are all delicious fun, fine treats to consider now that fall entertaining and the holiday season approaches.